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High heating bill in winter? Start with the therms

Short answer

A bigger winter bill has three possible causes: higher rates, colder weather, or a house using more gas. Your utility account separates them. Compare this month's therms with the same month last year, per day and against the weather. If usage rose on similar weather, look at the furnace, the water heater, attic ducts and air leaks.

Problem · · 8 sources, listed below ↓

A high winter bill feels like one number, but it's two multiplied together: how much gas the house used and what each unit cost. Only one of those is in your hands. Before anyone talks about insulation, it's worth ten minutes to find out which one moved.

The rate part, in one paragraph

Gas rates for nearly every Bay Area home are set by PG&E, under rules approved by the state; Palo Alto is the exception, where the City of Palo Alto Utilities supplies both gas and electricity. Your community choice provider, such as MCE, Ava, SVCE, WestLight, San José Clean Energy, CleanPowerSF or Sonoma Clean Power, supplies electricity generation, not gas. If the price per therm went up, the bill went up with it, and no attic work changes that. The rest of this page is about the other half.

Pull the numbers from your account

PG&E's online account lets you compare the current month with the same month of the previous year, view usage by bill, month or hour, and compare your usage with weather and temperature. CPAU customers have their own account tools. What you're after:

  1. Therms used this billing period and the same period last year. Therms are on the gas line of the bill.
  2. Days in each billing period. Periods vary by a few days, and a 33-day bill isn't comparable to a 28-day one.
  3. The weather. Use the account's weather overlay. A cold snap in one January and a mild one the next tells you most of the story.
  4. Whether a bill was estimated. PG&E notes that a gas meter that stops communicating can lead to an estimated bill, or a delayed one covering more than a month.

Divide therms by days to get therms per day. That's the number to compare.

A worked example

These numbers are made up to show the math, not taken from any real bill.

January last yearJanuary this year
Therms on the gas line6482
Days in the billing period2931
Therms per day2.212.65
Weather in the account overlaysimilarsimilar

The bill is 28 percent higher in therms, but per day the house used about 20 percent more gas. With similar weather, that's a real change in the house, worth chasing. If this January had been markedly colder, most of the difference would be weather and there might be nothing to fix.

What burns gas in a Bay Area winter

EIA's 2020 housing survey found natural gas was the main heating fuel in 64 percent of California homes. In a typical gas-heated Bay Area house the winter bill is mostly:

  • The furnace, the biggest swing with the weather.
  • The water heater, which works harder when the incoming water is colder.
  • The stove and dryer, usually small and steady.

The climate shapes the furnace's share. In the fog belt (San Francisco, Daly City, the Oakland and Alameda flats, all climate zone 3) winters are mild but long, and the heat runs on and off for months. Inland valley cities such as Walnut Creek, Concord and Livermore (climate zone 12) get colder winter nights, so the furnace works harder for a shorter season.

Which attic problems actually touch the furnace load

Three things in an attic add to the heat a furnace has to make:

Leaky ducts. If the furnace's ducts run through the attic, every leak heats the attic instead of the room. ENERGY STAR estimates that about 20 to 30 percent of the air moving through a typical duct system is lost to leaks, holes and poorly connected ducts, and lists higher heating bills and rooms that are hard to heat among the signs. Chewed or disconnected ducts are a common find in attics where rodents have been. See ductwork.

Air leaks through the ceiling. Warm air rises and escapes into the attic through gaps around fixtures, pipes, wires and the hatch, and cold outdoor air is drawn in lower down to replace it. The furnace heats that replacement air. See air sealing.

Thin or disturbed insulation. Insulation that has settled, been trampled or been pushed aside around a repair lets heat through the ceiling. Topping it up is blown-in insulation.

ENERGY STAR's estimate for sealing and insulating together is up to 10 percent savings on annual energy bills. We don't promise a figure for any particular house.

If what you notice most is cold rooms and drafts rather than the bill, a cold, drafty house in winter covers the comfort side.

When usage jumped, look for what changed

A per-day increase on similar weather has a cause. In rough order of how often it's the answer:

  • A furnace or water heater problem. A failing part, a dirty filter or a thermostat setting can raise use without any change upstairs. That's a heating technician's call, not ours.
  • Duct damage. A duct that came apart in the attic dumps heated air there. If rooms at the end of a run went cold this winter, suspect this.
  • More people at home, or a new routine. Working from home through the winter shows up on a gas bill.
  • A change to the attic, such as insulation disturbed by a repair, a cable install or a pest problem.

Safety before sealing

Tightening a house changes how air moves through it. Older gas appliances that draw combustion air from the room and vent by natural draft can be affected. California's 2025 Energy Code recognizes this: homes with atmospherically vented combustion appliances inside the pressure boundary are exempt from its attic air-sealing requirement. Before any sealing near those appliances, they and their venting should be checked.

CPSC's carbon monoxide advice is to have the heating system professionally inspected and serviced annually, and to install CO alarms on every level of the home and outside sleeping areas. Its fact sheet says that inspection should check chimneys and flues for "blockages, corrosion, partial and complete disconnections, and loose connections."

Rebates and the order of work

Utility and city programs change often. What's open in your city, and what it requires, is on our rebates page. The order that makes sense for a gas-heated house is usually: fix the ducts, seal the ceiling, then top up the insulation.

Getting the attic side checked

Book a free inspection or send photos and a short video from the hatch for an estimate. Bring the two bills you compared; they help us see whether the attic is a likely part of the answer. You get a written quote, and nothing is due before you sign.

Questions people ask

Why is my heating bill so high this winter?

Check three things in order. Rates: the utility sets them, and the bill shows the price per therm. Weather: a colder month uses more gas in any house. Usage: if you used more therms per day than in the same month last year, on similar weather, something in the house changed, and that's the part you can do something about.

Is a high PG&E bill in winter usually the gas or the electricity?

In most Bay Area homes, winter heat is gas. EIA's 2020 survey found natural gas was the main heating fuel in 64 percent of California homes. The bill shows gas in therms and electricity in kilowatt-hours separately, so look at each line before deciding which one jumped.

How much can attic work cut a heating bill?

We don't promise a number, because it depends on the house. ENERGY STAR says sealing and insulating can provide up to 10 percent savings on annual energy bills. Where ducts run through the attic, ENERGY STAR says about 20 to 30 percent of the air moving through a typical duct system is lost to leaks, holes and poor connections, which is why ducts are often the first thing to check.

Can sealing air leaks make a gas furnace or water heater unsafe?

It can affect older appliances that draw combustion air from the room and vent by natural draft, which is why California's code exempts homes with those appliances inside the pressure boundary from its attic air-sealing requirement. Before sealing around them, the appliances and their venting should be checked. CPSC recommends CO alarms on every level of the home and outside sleeping areas.

General information, not a safety inspection. The official word: CPSC: Carbon Monoxide Information Center (opens in a new tab).

Published by: Attic WISEUpdated:

Facts on this page were last checked against the sources on October 23, 2026.

Pages that pick up where this one stops.

  • Air sealing

    Top plates, wire holes, light cans and the hatch, sealed before new insulation covers them.

  • Ductwork sealing & replacement

    Leaky joints sealed; runs wrapped or replaced.

  • Blown-in insulation

    Fiberglass or cellulose, blown in to the depth written on your quote.

  • Cold, drafty house

    Drafts with the windows shut, floors that chill your feet, one bedroom that never warms up. The cold usually gets in somewhere you aren't looking.

  • Rebates

    Every Bay Area attic insulation rebate we could check on the program's own page: what's open (only with a heat pump), what ended, and who offers none.

Let's go look at your attic.

Start with your ZIP code. A few questions later you'll have a Bay Area market range, and you can pick a time for a free inspection.

What happens next

  1. 1

    Price range online. The estimator gives you a Bay Area market range in a couple of minutes.

  2. 2

    Free inspection. In your home, or from photos or video you send if you'd rather skip the visit.

  3. 3

    Written quote. What comes out, what gets sealed, what goes in.

  4. 4

    Install day. Done by our own crews.

  5. 5

    Cleanup. Old material bagged and hauled away, the work area cleaned.

  • No deposit until you sign, and never more than 10% of the contract or $1,000, whichever is less.
  • Every customer gets five business days to cancel after signing.
  • Materials carry the manufacturer warranty.

Attic estimate

Question 1 of 5
1 · ZIP codeWhere's the attic?

Rather talk it through?(760) 655-5959